The ever-so-practical Ingrid non-wired bra pattern may be your new everyday go-to bra. The goal in creating this bra was to have a bra without underwires that supported the breasts without that characteristic collapse of the centre front that is common in other non-wired bras. We’ve solved that issue with an integrated bridge and a Gothic Arch.The split lower cup, plus the front and side panels were designed to keep the breasts directed forward yet still separated. The unique power net front panel helps keep air flowing in the central core between the breasts. Our pattern design team worked on creating many prototypes, each with a small improvement to the overall look or performance. Our testers were impressed that this non-wired bra could be worn for so many activities, including running a marathon!
In addition to the support elements incorporated into every Ingrid, we’ve listened to what you said you wanted in a larger size non-wired bra; we’ve added the option of a zip front closing or a hook and eye front closing. We have made it with the wide waistband elastic instead of the standard bottom band elastic – our wearers loved the comfort! We’ve even made Ingrid with the main cup lined with cut & sew foam! Try it with lace lined with sheer cup lining! Sew many options!
The sizing for the Ingrid non-wired bra pattern is a bit different from other bra patterns, in that we use the Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) to determine the size of the cup. This is the measurement from the wire line at the base of the cup up to the location of the apex. (Where your breast connects to the chest wall, straight up to your nipple.) It is much more accurate than relying on Ready-to-wear bra sizing, which can differ from country to country. The BCD method of sizing bra patterns removes the doubt involved in traditional sizing, where the size names differ between manufacturers and so-called “sister sizing” doesn’t work between different pattern makers. In our system, if the BCD size you try is too small, you move up to the next one. It’s that simple! We’ve written a blog post about it here. Determine your BCD by measuring your best fitting bra between the bust point and the wire line directly below it. All BCD sizes from 2.75 to 9.0 are included in the pattern. Combine this cup depth with 1 of 11 band sizes from 26″ (65 cm) through 46″ (115 cm), making the Ingrid Bra Pattern size range equivalent to well over 200 unique bra sizes, including the sizes in-between that are normally not available.
Required Materials to make Ingrid:
0.5 m of stable fabric such as Duoplex or Sheer Cup Lining for the cups, underbust and side panel
A piece of cut & sew foam for padding the straps 2″ x 10″ (5 x 25 cm) - Optional. Your padding of choice may be used.
0.3 metres of Power Net for the back band and front panel
1.5 m or less of 3/8″ finished width Fold-over Binding
1.2 m or less of Plush-Back Bottom Band Elastic sized according to the chart below
1.2 metres of ⅜” Plush Back/Band Elastic for top band
.5 metres of 3/8″ wide strip of stabilizer for the neckline
.6 m of of Strap Elastic sized according to the chart below
2 sliders and 2 rings in a width to match the strap elastic
1 Hook & Eye Set for the back sized according to the chart below
1 Bow Embellishment for the front
Optional: 1.1 metres or less of 1.5″ (37 mm) plush waistband elastic
Optional: 1 separating zipper 4-7″ long (10-18 cm) depending on your size
Optional: Single row hook and eye tape for the front closing 4-7″ long (10-18 cm) depending on size
Posted by Gloria H. on 30th Aug 2018
If you want a wireless pattern, the Ingrid needs to be in your pattern stash. I wear wireless 90% of the time and typically have to do a large number of modifications or draft a pattern myself. With the Ingrid, I got my final fit on the second try.
On my first try, I followed the measuring and directions (including material types) to the letter. It was just a bit small in the cup. I went from a 5.0 to a 5.5 and it was just right, still following the materials and instructions. The only change I made was to only use one layer of powernet for the front panel piece, since I found two layers a bit bulky.
Then the fun could begin. I prefer bras made from tricot, without the padded straps, and with stretch in the under cup band area. I made those changes, careful to follow the stretch instructions for both layers of tricot, but still using the 5.5 and the fit was spot on. I added 1/2" to the front panel top and the top of the side powerbar, so that I could use the traditional picot edged elastic technique instead of fold over elastic. I did leave out the 1/4" niche from the top cup and just added 1/4" to the tail of the front panel piece. I felt that it was a bit fiddly and had a tiny gap that I had to cover with the FOE on my first two attempts.
I had my daughter take her two measurements, and following the pattern with no "as you go" fitting, it again was spot on. We are very different with body shapes, with her being 21 and me at 62. This pattern is working fantastic for both of us and she as even requested I made her more using this pattern.
The Ingrid fills a much needed gap in the available bra patterns. By using the BCD and the underbust, I feel that most women could get in the fit ballpark quickly.