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The fashionable Ruby full band bra pattern can be made with or without underwires. This pattern features an off-set vertical seamed cup for the roundest styling, and a shortened upper cup for maximum lift. Our testers were amazed at the push-up look this pattern gives. The Ruby Full Band Bra Pattern has been specially designed to use with foam lining, therefore enabling you to use virtually any stretch fabric over it as a cup cover. It can even be made without foam, using low-stretch fabrics or fabrics lined with Sheer Cup Lining.
The sizing for the Ruby is a bit different from other bra patterns, in that we use the Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) to determine the size of the cup. This is the measurement from the wire line at the base of the cup up to the location of the apex. It is much more accurate than relying on Ready-to-wear bra sizing, which can differ from company to company. Determine your BCD by measuring your best fitting bra between these two points. All 13 cup sizes from 3.0 to 6.0 are included in the pattern. Combine this cup depth with 1 of 8 band sizes from 26″ (65 cm) through 40″ (100 cm), making the Ruby Full Band Bra Pattern size range equivalent to over 100 unique bra sizes.
Required Materials for Ruby:
0.3 m of Cut & Sew Foam Lining (only if using foam lining)
0.5 m of stretchy fabric to cover the cups (if using foam lining)
0.5 m of stable fabric such as Duoplex or Sheer Cup Lining for the cups (if not using foam lining) and for the frame
0.3 metres of Power Net for the back band
1.5 m or less of 3/8″ finished width Fold-over Binding
1.1 m or less of ½” Plush-Back/Band Elastic for bottom band
1.2 metres of ⅜” Plush Back/Band Elastic for top band
.5 metres of 3/8″ wide strip of stabilizer for the neckline
1.0 – 1.2 m of of Strap Elastic ½” to 3/4″ wide
2 sliders and 4 rings width to match the strap elastic
1 metre of Underwire Casing
1 Hook & Eye Set for the back (2 hooks high for sizes up to 4.25 and 3 hooks high for sizes 4.5 to 6.0)
1 Bow Embellishment for the front (optional)
1 set of Underwires according to the chart below
|Bottom Cup Depth||Usually Fits North American Bra Sizes||Accepts Wire Sizes|
|3.0″ (7.5 cm)||36A, 34B, 32 C||WR-34, WL-32|
|3.25″ (8.1 cm)||38A, 36B, 34C||WR-36, WL-34|
|3.5″ (8.8 cm)||40A, 38B, 36C, 32D||WR-38, WL-36|
|3.75″ (9.4 cm)||40B, 38C, 34D, 30E||WR-40, WL-38, WX-36|
|4.0″ (10 cm)||42B, 40C, 36D, 32E||WR-42, WL-40, WX-38|
|4.25″ (10.6 cm)||44B, 42C, 38D, 34E, 30F||WR-44, WL-42, WX-40|
|4.5″ (11.2 cm)||44C, 40D, 36E, 32F||WR-44, WL-42, WX-40|
|4.75″ (11.9 cm)||42D, 38E, 34F, 30G||WR-46, WL-44, WX-42|
|5.0″ (12.5 cm)||44D, 40E, 36F, 32G||WR-46, WL-44, WX-42|
|5.25″ (15 cm)||42E, 38F, 34G, 30H||WR-48, WL-46, WX-44|
|5.5″ (125 cm)||44E, 40F, 36G, 32H||WR-48, WL-46, WX-44|
|5.75″ (14.4 cm)||42F, 38G, 34H||WR-50, WL-48, WX-46|
|6.0″ (15 cm)||44F, 40G, 36H||WR-50, WL-48, WX-46|
Posted by Lissa G. on 13th Jul 2018
In the Ruby model, Beverly Johnson has shown us the best fitting method ever. The detailed info on selecting correct size let me make a nearly perfectly fitting bra on the first go. Once you determine your correct cup, you choose the band according to your actual ribcage measurement. It makes for a VERY comfy band fit.
I've made one as a bra and one as a bikini top. I love them both.